Travel guide: Copenhagen/Malmö

I went to Copenhagen for a few days in March, and it was one my favorite places I’ve visited. A couple of weeks ago, a friend reached out for recommendations in advance of her own trip there over the holidays, and I figured I’d turn the email I sent her into a blog post. As an added bonus, I spent one night in Malmö, Sweden — a quick jaunt across the water that would also make for a great day trip.

Nyhavn

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The Standard Building

This is where you’ll find the famous colored buildings along the water. Also close to the Standard Building which is also a cool building and has a couple of lunch spots inside, including Almanak, which appeared on a bunch of best-of lists.

Papirøen

This “paper island” a short walk from Nyhavn was really cool. Highlights included Copenhagen Street Food, an indoor food hall (closing December 22, 2017), an adorable coffee shop called Den Plettede Gris (owned by fashion designer Henrik Vibskov), Copenhagen Contemporary (a museum/gallery — when I was there, Yoko Ono had installed an interactive art project out front [now closed — ugh!]).

Amass

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Three kinds of carrots with cashew ricotta at Amass

My dinner at Amass was possibly the best meal of my life, but there are a ton of great restaurants in Copenhagen, many of them helmed by former Noma chefs. Overall, I was blown away by the food quality and customer service in Copenhagen.

Warpigs

If you’re into craft beer and/or Texas BBW, Warpigs is in Copenhagen’s meatpacking district and is a collaboration between 3Floyds, Mikkeller, and Chef Andrew Hroza who used to tour with heavy-metal bands and make them BBQ on the road.

Louisiana Museum

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One of many Henry Moore sculptures at the Lousiana Museum

Fantastic museum and sculpture garden with the most amazing museum shop EVER — the downstairs is basically a cool clothing boutique featuring local designers. I was obsessed. Worth the quick trip north (for New Yorkers: it’s basically the equivalent of a MetroNorth ride to Westchester).

Fun fact: Alexander Brun, the first owner of the property on which the museum is built, had three wives named Louise, and he named the villa after them.

Mads Nørgaard

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My favorite clothing store. Local Danish designer, lots of bright colors but also cool minimalist dresses.

Værnedamsvej

Adorable street said to remind people of a Parisian side street. Have lunch at Granola, get cool typography-themed gifts at Playtype, check out Dora for home goods. There’s also a Mads Nørgaard outpost nearby.

Malmö, Sweden

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Rörsjökanalen

Sweden’s third-largest city is a quick 35-minute train ride from Copenhagen, and well worth the trip.

Have authentic Swedish food at Två Krögare (known locally as Bullen, pronounced “Bun”), and a meat plate (“Bastardplanka”) at Bastard.

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Coffee at Solde Kaffebar — if you order a croissant they will ask if you want to add meat and cheese to it and the answer is yes (or just cheese if you’re vegetarian — the cheese was phenomenal and it’s a breakfast I’ve tried — and failed — to repeat back in the States).

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The Moderna Museet Malmö is both fantastic and free.

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Lilla Torg

If you’re there at night, Lilla Torg (Malmö’s smaller town square) is a popular spot for happy hour (which they call After Work) and stays busy well into the night — every restaurant has heat lamps outside so there’s outdoor seating even when it’s cold.

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I stayed at the Best Western Plus Noble House and loved it. You can purchase the stuffed dogs at the desk. (I obviously bought one.)

 

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